Surat: India is globally renowned for its rich cultural heritage and traditional handicrafts. Among these, Gujarat and especially Surat, holds a distinct identity for its zari craft. Mentioned in the writings of the Greek scholar Megasthenes and now recognized with a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, Surat’s zari and zardozi work represent a priceless tradition that has endured since ancient times. This very legacy has been kept alive for over 120 years by the Zariwala family of Sagrampura in Surat.

Surat’s identity is shaped not only by its cuisine and industries, but also by traditional crafts such as the zari industry. The traditional zari enterprise, preserved generation after generation by a single family in Sagrampura, was initiated by Jakishandas Chapadiya. While times and generations changed, the legacy of zari remained intact. Today, the younger generation of the family is successfully carrying this heritage forward by aligning traditional zari craftsmanship with the demands of the modern era.

There was a time when Surat’s zari was considered the pride of the city. During the Mughal period, zari fabrics produced in Surat were exported overseas. Areas such as Gopipura, Navapura, and Wadifaliya were major hubs of the zari industry. Although the industry witnessed a decline over time, it is now experiencing a renewed resurgence.

Notably, zari produced in Surat today is still sent to regions such as Banaras, Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka, and Bengaluru, where it is woven into sarees. Zari made from gold and silver threads is once again becoming a preferred choice among the younger generation.

Speaking about sustaining the zari industry through a blend of modernization and tradition, Chetankumar Pravinbhai Zariwala says that his family has been associated with the traditional zari business for nearly 100 to 120 years. Earlier, the work was done using age-old methods, but with changing times they have adopted new technologies and machines. Each family member has been assigned specific responsibilities, ensuring smooth operations. Along with zari manufacturing, the family also produces and sells sarees woven with gold and silver threads. Since manufacturing is carried out at home, costs are reduced and strict quality control is maintained.

He further explains that about 60 years ago, looms were operated using purely traditional methods, whereas today modern machines are in use. Despite having completed his education in B.Com and LL.B., Chetankumar chose to leave legal practice and dedicate himself to advancing the family’s zari business. He states clearly that while many believe the zari industry is disappearing, the reality is that by adopting new methods, the industry is being given a fresh direction.

Zari Industry: A Symbol of Employment and Self-Reliance

Today, the Zariwala family is not only sustaining its own business but is also providing employment to more than 50 people. Developed as a small home-based industry, this enterprise embodies the spirit of “Vocal for Local” and “Atmanirbhar Bharat.” For the Zariwala family, zari is not merely a business, it is a legacy, an identity, and a lifelong pursuit.

History of the Zari Industry

The zari industry is one of India’s most ancient and luxurious handicrafts, with a history believed to span thousands of years. References to garments and embroidery made with gold and silver threads are found in the writings of the Greek historian Megasthenes. In ancient times, zari was extensively used in attire prepared for kings, nobles, and courtiers. During the Mughal era, the zari industry received significant patronage. As Surat was a major trading port at the time, zari and zari-woven textiles produced here were exported both within India and abroad. Zari craftsmanship became popular in regions such as Surat, Banaras, Kanchipuram, and various parts of South India.

Surat’s zari has long been known for its fineness, purity of gold and silver threads, and long-lasting quality. Traditionally developed as a home-based cottage industry, generations of artisans have infused their skills and experience into this craft. Despite changes in technology and fashion over time, the zari industry has preserved its core essence. In the modern era, the fusion of traditional craftsmanship with contemporary designs has given zari a renewed identity. With the GI tag, Surat’s zari has gained global recognition, providing fresh momentum for the preservation and promotion of this treasured traditional craft.